Information on Singapore

Colonial Singapore. The mark of Sir Stamford Raffles is indelibly stamped on central Singapore. By moving the business district south of the river and making the northern area the administrative centre, Raffles created the framework that remained the blueprint for central Singapore through generations of colonial rule and the republican years of independence. Places of interest include: Empress Place Building, an imposing Victorian structure, built in 1865, that houses a museum, art and antique galleries and a chic restaurant; the incongruous Padang, where flannelled cricketers once caught, bowled and batted in the searing heat; Raffles Hotel, a Singaporean institution which has become a byword for oriental luxury; and any number of imposing churches, such as St Andrew's Cathedral and the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd.

Chinatown
Chinatown is Singapore's cultural heart and still provides glimpses of the old ways with its numerous temples, decorated terraces and its frantic conglomeration of merchants, shops and activity. Unfortunately much of Chinatown has been torn down and redeveloped over the past 30 years. Faithful restoration by the Urban Redevelopment Authority has saved some parts but it has also posed a new threat, since the restored buildings are now desirable properties commanding high rents, and traditional businesses - such as shops selling incense to temple worshippers, letter writers and chop (stamp) makers - are moving out and a new gentrified Chinatown of fashionable restaurants and expensive shops is taking its place. It's still a fascinating place to explore though, especially in the early-morning hours when activity is more pronounced. The Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown is arguably the most interesting in Singapore.

Arab St.
The Muslim centre of Singapore is a traditional textile district, full of batiks from Indonesia, silks, sarongs and shirts. Add to this mix rosaries, flower essences, hajj caps, songkok hats, basketware and rattan goods, and you have a fair idea of the products haggled over in this part of the city. The grand Sultan Mosque is the biggest and liveliest mosque in Singapore, but the tiny Malabar Muslim Jamaath Mosque is the most beautiful. There's fine Indian Muslim food along nearby North Bridge Rd and the foodstalls on Bussorah St are especially atmospheric at dusk during Ramadan.

Little India
This modest but colourful area of wall-to-wall shops, pungent aromas and Hindi film music is a relief from the prim modernity of many parts of the city. Centred around the southern end of Serangoon Rd, this is the place to come to pick up that framed print of a Hindu god you've always wanted, eat great vegetarian food and watch streetside cooks fry chapatis. The Zhujiao Centre is the main market, but there are also interesting spice shops nearby. The best temples are Veerama Kali Ammam, Sri Srinivasa Perumal and the glitzy Temple of 1000 Lights.

Jurong
Jurong Town, west of the city centre, is a huge industrial and housing area that is the powerhouse of Singapore's economy. This might seem an unlikely spot for a number of Singapore's tourist attractions but it is home to the Haw Par Villa (an incredibly tacky Chinese mythological theme park), the beautifully landscaped Jurong Bird Park, Chinese & Japanese Gardens and the hands-on Singapore Science Centre.

Guest Houses: The majority of the guest-houses are situated along Bencoolen Street and Beach Road. Although considerably cheaper than the main hotels, guest-houses tend not to be good value for money, the price per night is usually between S$20 and S$30 for a small, ill-equipped room. Discounts are sometimes available when staying a few days.

Youth Hostels: There are at least a dozen hostel-style establishments offering communal dormitory accommodation, the average price for a night’s accommodation is S$10 or less. There is one YMCA International hostel in Singapore.

Camping : The few campsites there are in Singapore are inconveniently located, making camping a difficult option. Tents can be rented from the Universal Adventure shop on Pulau Ubin, and can be pitched on open land on the island. The only other option is to go to Sentosa island, where a four-person tent costs S$16 (which includes entrance fee to the island), pitched on a site with toilets and barbecue pits.

Boat Quay is packed nightly until the early hours, but Orchard Rd and Chinatown also have their fair share of good bars. Smoking is permitted in bars, though if food is also served all smoking is restricted until after meal times.

The live music scene in the bars is less healthy. It's very limited, with few venues and only a small roster of bands and performers. For better bands, you have to go to the clubs and discos, where a cover charge normally applies. At such places dress is smart casual, drinks are expensive and the bands mostly play covers. Almost every four-star hotel has a Filipino band playing in the lobby, every five-star hotel has a jazz band, and even many three-star hotels can muster up a piano.

Highbrow entertainment such as classical music, ballet and theatre can also be enjoyed in Singapore, as can Chinese opera and tourist-oriented cultural shows. In addition, Singapore regularly hosts touring international shows. Tickets for most of these shows, which are widely advertised, can be bought at Sistic (bookings tel 348 5555) and TicketCharge (tel 296 2929). Sistic outlets include those at: Bugis Junction, Takashimaya on Orchard Rd, Suntec City, Wisma Atria and the Victoria Concert Hall box office. TicketCharge outlets include: The Substation, Tanglin Shopping Centre and the Funan Centre. Singapore Tourism Board (STB) offices can assist with information, although there are numerous periodicals that have up-to-date listings of current performances, telephone numbers and so on.

The Straits Times newspaper is good for cultural and special events, while Eight Days, the weekly television and entertainment magazine, has listings. This Week in Singapore has full details of what's on. For nightlife, look out for I-S Magazine and Pop Out, which are both free and come out twice a month. You can generally find copies at hotels, cafes and STB offices.

The large bookstores Borders, Kinokuniya and MPH all have free newsletters that provide information on talks, events and promotions. The newsletters are available from the cashier desks